First impressions are everything, especially when it comes to fine dining. That first visual impact of a passed appetizer, the first aromatic fragrance of ginger and soy sautéeing in the kitchen, and most importantly—that first savory bite—will set the tone for the entire menu. Similar to the wedding invitation, an appetizer gives discerning dinner guests a glimpse of what is to come. This first course selection is known throughout Hawaii as the pupu. We had the pleasure of combining the culinary artistry of five of Maui’s top executive chefs who showcased their most famous, innovative, and of course, delicious pupu dishes. The small-plates formula of the Polynesian appetizer has come to hold as much importance as the main course on any modern day wedding menu. According to executive chef James McDonald, co-owner of Pacific’O on the Beach and I‘O, “Everyone in Hawaii knows that the pupu is as integral as any course of the dining experience, if not more so. The Hawaiian culture has long advocated serving as many ‘tastes’ as possible, and the pupu has been that vehicle.”

Our hand-selected procession of Maui’s master chefs included Beverly Gannon of Celebrations Catering and Hali‘imaile General Store, Cameron Lewark of Spago, James McDonald, and Mark and Carol O’Leary of O’Leary’s Catering. They gathered at the White Orchid Beach House on the island’s south shore to demonstrate their culinary expertise before a rapt audience of editors and photographers. Who would blend bold ingredients seamlessly to result in an explosion of taste, and who would present the most awe-inspiring little plates of delectable artfulness? In the pages before you, the age-old saying that everything happens in threes was clearly the case with these bite size presentations that packed a tasty punch.

Cameron Lewark, Chef de Cuisine of Spago at the Four Seasons Resort Maui, refined his talents under the culinary direction of Spago proprietors Wolfgang Puck and Lee Hefter. He produces well-executed versions of the Wolfgang Puck Fine Dining Group’s classics, giving them his own personal twist. Layers of bright purple roasted Kula beets and warm Hawaiian goat cheese are sliced into intricate triangles and placed in a dazzling row. A shallot citrus vinaigrette is drizzled on top for a splendid presentation. As befits any serious scholar of regional cuisine, Cameron is a specialist in the art of sashimi. A trio of appetizers featuring freshly caught ahi tuna is displayed on a stark white platter. Spicy ahi tuna poke in sesame-miso cones (a signature pupu at Spago) sits alongside ahi ceviche with wakame seaweed salad drizzled in Meyer lemon soy, and ajo sashimi with carrot and daikon salad with yuzu ponzu sauce. (continued on page 136)

Chef Cameron utilizes the bountiful and diverse ingredients available throughout the islands, from wonderful fresh seafood to organic vegetables. A scrumptious symphony of tomatoes is displayed in threes: a tomato salad comprised of Olowalu tomatoes and Mauna Kea goat cheese is paired with tomato capriccio and upcountry yellow tomatoes with preserved lemons and parmigiano-reggiano. Chef Cameron’s special tomato water is particularly noteworthy. Served in a clear shot glass, the delicious concoction is splashed with a dash of 12-year-old balsamic for a zesty burst of flavor. The painstaking care the chef takes to prepare this amazing dish is well worth the reward!

Beverly Gannon is the chef and owner of Hali‘imaile General Store, Joe’s Bar & Grill, and Celebration’s Catering. Acclaimed as one of the twelve original founders of the Hawaii Regional Cuisine movement, Bev knows the importance of the pupu. “I believe the first bite you take and first visual that you see at a restaurant or a party sets the tone for the rest of the dining experience,” she says, “If the first bite or two does not ‘wow’ your guests, you’re in trouble!”
(continued on page 138)

Chef Gannon artfully arranged a trio of tartares in miniature porcelain cups: ahi tartare with toasted sesame seeds and chives, salmon tartare with baby red beets, and yellowtail tartare with orange Tobiko and Black American caviar. Herb-crusted fried mozzarella is nestled within a ripe Hamakua tomato in a fun display. The duck tostada is delightful, an Asian spice confit of duck with cabbage and vegetable slaw placed between crisp corn tortillas. To satisfy the sweeter side, a fig brulée is topped with Roquefort crumble and toasted pistachios, pecans, and walnuts—simply delicious!

Carol O’Leary was introduced to the culinary world at an early age. Her family’s restaurant, Longhi’s, is well known for legendary cuisine. Carol and her husband Mark, also an accomplished chef, prepared a variety of colorful pupu. “The first time I tasted Pacific Rim cuisine was over 20 years ago at Wolfgang Puck’s restaurant Chinois, and I thought that I had died and gone to heaven!” O’Leary recalls excitedly. The duo’s opening salvo of sea scallops served on coconut laced Okinawan potatoes with a manoa butter lettuce mint sauce, crème fraîche, and Beluga caviar was delectable. Mark and Carol also presented a colorful portion of Kaua‘i prawns with mango ginger coulis on candied star fruit with grilled pineapple salsa and Topeka caviar. The skillful show continued with ono ceviche expertly wrapped a cucumber strip topped with passion fruit vinaigrette.“By pairing European and Asian cuisine, and using techniques and ingredients from these regions we can produce some of the most interesting and exciting dishes,” Carol says.

Award-winning chef James McDonald has been honing his contemporary Hawaiian cuisine on the multicultural island of Maui for over twenty years. His pupu are uniformly artful and fresh incorporating exotic vegetables and locally caught seafood. A Crudo ala I’O, translated as “raw” in Italian, is cleverly served in clear martini glasses. The beef tartare is made of Spanish olives, onions, Arbaquina olive oil, sherry wine vinegar & black Moloka‘i sea salt. Long sashimi strips are blended with chili, shaved green papaya, mint, basil, kaffir and olive oil. The ahi poke is mixed with organic hemp oil, roasted hemp seeds, cucumbers, and wasabi yogurt and served with plantain chips. “I love to showcase unique items with a bit of flair and familiarity,” Chef James says. The grand finalé—a glistening jalapeno-wrapped diver scallop with roasted pepper aioli and mango accent is a local favorite. “Pacific Rim Cuisine should reflect the islands in taste, uniqueness, color, and beauty,” he says. “ If you strive to bring all of these elements to the plate, then you are sharing the soul of Pacific Rim Cuisine.”

[poo-poo] –noun Polynesian-Hawaiian Cookery any hot or cold bite-size appetizer, often served in a varied assortment. [Origin: < Hawaiian pupu]